日本夏2025年 - Day 2 • Kiryu to Nikkō

日本夏2025年 - Day 2

May 27, 2025

Kiryu to Nikkō - 68 Km

Start 8:23 AM

Finish 1:44 PM

Total Duration 5:21

Moving Time 3:55

Stopped Time 1:26

Ascent 1,180 m

Descent 745 m

Tour Total 202 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/287909569  

I slept well in container number 38 at HOTEL R9 The Yard in Kiryu. At 4:30 a.m., the first light of sunrise began to seep through the curtains. I lingered in bed until seven, easing into the day. With a 3:00 p.m. check-in booked in Nikko, there was no urgency to get an early start.

Once I was packed and saddled up, I navigated through the quiet streets of Kiryu. The surrounding mountains loomed like a preview of the day’s climbing. I rejoined the Watarase River and made a quick stop at a 7-Eleven for breakfast: a Craft Boss latte and a bag of donut holes.

The climbing began soon after. I was on National Route 122, also known as the Akagane Highway—narrow, winding, and full of short, punchy climbs and descents. Space was tight; the shoulder was barely a six-inch white line. I entered the tour’s first tunnel—a short, unlit passage without a name.

At 9:30 a.m., I reached the Kurohone • Yamabiko roadside station, only to find it closed. The road followed steep mountain slopes, crossing over lively whitewater streams and past massive erosion-control structures built into the landscape.

Eventually, I was rewarded with a wider shoulder, giving cars more room to pass. But overgrown roadside bushes occasionally slapped me in the face. I passed blooming roses in front of homes, tiny stone shrines tucked into hillsides, and bursts of wildflowers in full bloom.

After a long, punishing climb, I rolled into a small village where the route diverged from Route 122. A sharp right turn led to a steep descent, wiping out all the elevation I had just fought to gain. I sped past clusters of roadside bamboo and crossed the river, only to begin climbing once again.

Soon, a massive dam rose on my left—explaining the lake I’d seen on my maps. The climb beneath towering cedar trees was quiet and steep. I had narrow Route 343 to myself.

At Lake Kusaki, I stopped by the dam to apply sunscreen and hydrate. I had felt my left heel rubbing oddly earlier, and now I discovered the problem: one of my pannier’s plastic grommets had gone missing. The bag had slipped off the rack, and my dry bag—holding my sneakers—was dangling against the rear fender. Not ideal. I’d have to keep an eye on it.

Leaving Route 343, I crossed to the north side of the lake. It narrowed as I rejoined Route 122 and began climbing once more. Thankfully, this section had a three-foot shoulder. I paused to admire a beautiful granite fountain—massive stone blocks perfectly slotted together, with water cascading down from the top. A nearby stone yard likely crafted it.

Further on, I passed a crew clearing trees, then came to a long tunnel. The narrow sidewalk didn’t feel safe, so I rode in the roadway. The Ashio Tunnel, 484 meters long and lit inside, featured a sculpted relief above the entrance. I clipped on my front light and entered.

Crossing the Ashio Mountains, I passed the turnoff to the town of Ashio. Down below, I caught a glimpse of children sliding down grassy riverbanks on plastic sheets. It was noon, and I was 24 km from Nikko.

While cresting another hill, I spotted a family of monkeys lounging in the road. The moment they saw me, they darted into the trees. I stopped at a Lawson for a grapefruit drink and two onigiri. There was a small seating area inside where I could relax and regroup.

Back on the road, I continued climbing until I reached the Nissoku Tunnel, a long 2,765-meter passage. The descent that followed was brisk and cold—chilled air cutting through as I followed the Daiya River downhill. I passed another troop of monkeys sprawled across the pavement, likely soaking up residual warmth from the road.

The descent was long and frigid. I passed the Furukawa Electric Plant before merging onto the broader National Route 120.

Soon, temple complexes and wandering tourists signaled my arrival in Nikko. I reached my hotel an hour before check-in and detoured to Bonten Ramen for a bowl of rich butter corn miso ramen and a frosty draft mug of Suntory beer.

I’ve booked three nights here to explore the area’s UNESCO World Heritage sites before continuing my journey.

HOTEL R9 The Yard in Kiryu

Roadside roses in bloom

Stickered Marumiya Vending Machine Cafeteria on Route 122

Fellow Travelers at Kusaki Lake Observation Deck

Ashio Mountain Range

Bonten Ramen in Nikko

Map / Elevation Profile


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