Nikkō

June 24, 2025

Wednesday I woke in my hotel room to perfect weather—sunlight streaming through the windows and casting a golden glow over the surrounding mountains. After breakfast, I hopped on my bike and pedaled out of town, passing the iconic red Shin-kyo Bridge arching gracefully over the Daiya River.

My first stop was Taiyuin, the serene mausoleum of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third shogun and grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu. I arrived right as it opened and had the entire site to myself. There was even a designated area for bike parking—a convenient touch.

Next, I visited Futarasan Shrine, dedicated to the deities of Nikko's three sacred peaks: Mount Nantai, Mount Nyoho, and Mount Taro. I wandered the peaceful grounds and followed a quiet path beneath towering cedar trees. Once again, I found myself blissfully alone.

Then I made my way to Toshogu Shrine, the grand and ornate memorial to Tokugawa Ieyasu, founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, which governed Japan for over 250 years. By 10 a.m., the peaceful solitude had vanished—busloads of schoolchildren and tourists had arrived. Understandably so—Nikko is just a two-hour bus ride from Tokyo.

In the outer courtyard, I was amused by the Shinkyūsha—or ‘Sacred Stable’—and its intricate carving of the Three Wise Monkeys, each representing the timeless proverb: “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil.” This iconic image has become an enduring symbol of Nikkō.

I paused to admire Yomeimon Gate, considered Japan’s most elaborately decorated structure. Its intricate carvings and architectural splendor were astonishing. I climbed the 207 stone steps that wind through the forest to reach Okusha, Ieyasu’s secluded mausoleum. Somehow I missed the iconic Nemuri Neko (sleeping cat) relief. Later, I visited Honjido Hall to witness the famed "Crying Dragon"—a dramatic ceiling painting brought to life by a tour guide who clapped wooden sticks together to reveal an echoing ring directly beneath the dragon’s head.

It was a beautiful overload of the senses. I couldn’t help but notice how many visitors were accompanied by their pets, adding an unexpected touch of warmth to the sacred surroundings.

Next, I stopped by Rinno-ji’s hall to see the three large golden Buddhas before returning to Bonten Ramen for a bowl of yuba ramen—rich, flavorful, and comforting. I then visited the Hot Spring Hoyo Center, where the water lived up to its promise—blissfully hot and rejuvenating.

After soaking, I treated myself to a slice of cheesecake at the Nikko Cheese Garden, which was as delicious as I had hoped. An attempt to visit Murmur Biiru Stand fell flat—the owner refused to serve me upon noticing my bike helmet. Undeterred, I found my way to PUB&CAFE ヨロズヤ. The place had a chaotic charm, though the vibe was definitely odd. Giant toy guns—at least, I hope they were toys—hung from the walls, and the owner was, to say the least, eccentric.

Thursday morning, after breakfast, I rode out to the Tamozawa Imperial Villa—the former Nikkō retreat of the Imperial Family. The villa is an elegant fusion of traditional Edo and early Meiji architecture, and remains one of Japan’s largest wooden structures. Inside, Japanese and Western styles coexist in an intriguing balance. Sliding screens and exquisite courtyards seamlessly merge the interior with the surrounding nature. As I walked through the villa, I kept thinking about Frank Lloyd Wright—his love for horizontal lines and open floor plans echoed throughout.

Afterwards, I set out for Yumoto Onsen, a 37-mile round trip with over 4,000 feet of climbing. Apple Maps routed me up the Irohazaka Winding Road—unfortunately now one-way downhill. That meant I was climbing against traffic, tackling steep hairpin switchbacks while cars and buses descended toward me. I don’t like breaking rules in Japan, so the situation felt uncomfortable. At one point, a loaded touring cyclist zipped past me on the descent—a surreal moment of contrast.

I was heading back toward the Akechidaira Plateau and Lake Chuzenji, where I had been on Tuesday. At the top, I stopped at Kegon Falls and took an elevator 100 meters down through solid rock to an observation deck overlooking the roaring cascade. とてもすごい! Truly spectacular.

The climb continued until I finally reached the quiet mountain village of Yumoto Onsen. The air was thick with the unmistakable scent of sulfur.

Unfortunately, the onsen I had planned to visit was closed—and so was the nearby shrine bath. As rain began to fall, I found refuge in a covered, steaming-hot footbath. It was peaceful, meditative—until a school group arrived in a burst of noise and energy. I sat there for over an hour, waiting for the downpour to ease.

When the rain finally lightened, I pulled on my rain jacket and began the fast, cold descent back toward Nikkō.

To my surprise, the roads down in town were dry. I returned to Bonten Ramen for a bowl of spicy Kalbi miso ramen, some yuba, and a cold beer. A fitting end to an adventurous day—a reminder of Japan’s dramatic terrain and unpredictable mountain weather.

Tomorrow, despite a rain forecast, I continue north.

Nikko Yumoto Onsen Loop - 60Km

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/288647690