日本夏2025年

June 20, 2025

日本夏2025年 - Day 6

June 2, 2025

Sendai to - Yanaizu (Tome, Miyagi) - 107 Km

Start 8:46 AM

Finish 6:18 PM

Total Duration 9:32

Moving Time 5:55

Stopped Time 3:37

Ascent 570 m

Descent 634 m

Tour Total 624 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/290552280

I slept well in Room 604 at the KOKO Hotel in Sendai. At 5 AM, sunlight began pouring into the room, but I managed to fall back asleep for another two hours. I dreamed of bike touring—meeting up with friends along the way, rolling through imagined landscapes.

Downstairs, I treated myself to an incredible breakfast. I had to pay for it again, but it was absolutely worth it: two heaping portions of scrambled eggs, sausages, dumplings, noodles, and several cappuccinos.

It felt great to start the day in a clean cycling kit. For those keeping track, I’m still holding strong at “Buddha level” cleanliness—the gold standard for touring in Japan.

The weather was flawless: not a single cloud in the sky. I wore my cycling shirt, gilet, shorts with over-shorts, and my Pearl Izumi coffee-beer socks.

Leaving the hotel, I rode through a downtown maze of bars, restaurants, and pedestrian malls. I regretted not going out last night, but the ramen hit the spot and I was too wiped out.

My first stop was Rinnoji Temple, founded in 1441. Surrounded by an expansive cemetery, much of the temple has been reconstructed, but the atmosphere remains serene. I wandered through its tranquil garden, complete with koi ponds and blooming lilies. Still, as always, just as the Zen starts to settle in—there’s a leaf blower.

Next, I made my way to the Sendai Dai Kannon—the massive white-robed statue I’d seen looming in the distance the day before. I expected a brutal hill climb, and I wasn’t wrong. As I ascended, I passed locals meticulously sweeping their walkways and trimming weeds. Finally, the colossus came into view, surreal against a backdrop of strip malls and parked cars.

At 100 meters tall, this statue of the bodhisattva Byakue Kannon is the tenth largest in the world. Her feet form a dragon’s mouth, which I entered to begin the visit. An elevator took me to the top, and I descended via a spiral ramp lined with dozens of intricately carved Buddhas—It was like a giant Guggenheim Museum inside of the Statue of Liberty - only larger. It was difficult to fathom how big it was.

Back outside, the sun was blazing. I shed my gilet and coated myself in sunscreen before coasting back down into the city. Passing the KOKO Hotel again, I was reminded just how prevalent mask-wearing remains in Japan—nearly everyone had one on.

Riding eastward, I passed temples and shrines, including a cemetery mid-service where chanting and incense filled the air. I cruised by the Rakuten Eagles’ baseball stadium, its boulevard lined with player pennants.

For the first time, I saw someone using the tactile sidewalk tiles with a white cane—those yellow paths you see everywhere here finally in use. I followed an eight-lane highway through an industrial corridor, catching glimpses of the ocean and a distant Ferris wheel on the horizon.

I stopped at a 7-Eleven to use the restroom and grabbed an orange mango drink. By 1 PM, I was finally beyond Sendai, heading north on Route 45. I had no fixed destination. The forecast promised good weather, and I hoped to find a quiet place to camp later on.

I passed through a series of short tunnels—Sukadaiichi, Sukadaini, Hamada, and Matsushima—riding in the roadway each time.

Approaching Matsushima, I followed the coast, admiring the clusters of small offshore islands. A popular tourist spot, the area was bustling. I stopped for a curry oyster pocket bread and noticed tsunami evacuation signs and the nearby Matsushima Onsen. My route took an unnecessary detour off Highway 45—a dogleg promising something interesting, but ultimately just wasting time.

I adjusted course using Apple Maps, aiming for the Ishinomori Manga Museum. The new route took me through an industrial area, thick with the scent of pulp and timber.

The museum itself looks like a spaceship—sleek, stainless steel, and futuristic. Inside were life-size figures and animated exhibits celebrating Shotaro Ishinomori’s work. The monsters and helmeted heroes reminded me of some of the statues I’d seen earlier at Sendai Dai Kannon.

Riding back through town, I passed more life-size manga figures scattered around public spaces. Hunger hit, and I stopped for a bowl of tomato ramen and a cold beer.

The route veered inland, dodging some heavy climbs, and the riding was smooth—I made good time. By 6 PM, I’d hit my 100 km goal and started scouting for a campsite.

In Yanaizu (Tome, Miyagi), I stopped at a local shop for provisions, then followed the Minamisawa River where Google Maps showed a park nearby. What it didn’t show was the grueling, overgrown staircase leading up to it. I lugged my bags up first, then returned for the bike.

At the top, I found a gazebo and picnic table overlooking the river and town below—a perfect spot. I pitched my tent and started editing this report.