日本夏2025年

June 01, 2025

日本夏2025年 - Day 23

June 23, 2025
Sapporo to Otaru - 48 Km
Start 10:18 AM
Finish 3:32 PM
Total Duration 5:14
Moving Time 3:11
Stopped Time 2:03
Ascent 362 m
Descent 371 m
Tour Total 2,574 Km
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/299526449

I slept well in room 301 of the Koko Hotel in Sapporo. I woke fully rested—gear dry, kit clean, devices charged, and reports up to date. Using the hotel’s Wi-Fi, I mapped out my route to Otaru and began drafting a course across Honshu.

Before retrieving my bike from the outdoor lot, I treated myself to a cappuccino and a cookie. The chain had rusted from the rain a few nights prior, so I gave it a quick lube before setting off.

It was a bright, sunny day—warm enough for just a shirt. I slathered on sunscreen before rolling out. As I left the city, I caught glimpses of the mountains I’d pedaled through last week. Odori Park was still blooming with the flower festival in full swing. I was already beginning to miss Sapporo—and Hokkaido.

The route I’d originally plotted on Ride with GPS followed a busy, sprawl-choked road. Not ideal. I asked Apple Maps for an alternative and was rewarded with a scenic ride through parks and along bike paths, where locals were out playing tennis and even practicing golf.

Sapporo’s outskirts were a contrast of utilitarian concrete housing blocks and neat little box homes—each one spruced up with lovingly tended flowers. Japan’s devotion to floral beauty never ceases to amaze.

Eventually, I passed through a small town and found myself back on the coast. The road narrowed to two lanes and traffic thickened. For a while, houses and buildings obscured the view, until finally the sea reappeared.

The route worked hard to steer me away from Route 5 and its relentless four-lane traffic. In an underpass, I spotted the tour’s first snake—a Japanese rat snake. I’ll need Bill to confirm.

Eventually, I rejoined Route 5 and passed through the Hariusu Tunnel. On reaching Otaru, my first stop was the ferry terminal to pick up my boarding ticket. From there, I rode into town to visit the Otaru Canal.

I passed the Otaru Brewery and couldn’t resist stopping. The place was styled like a Bavarian beer hall, complete with German music. I ordered a large mug of Pilsner and the Eisbein—braised, salt-cured pork shank with sauerkraut and potatoes. Strangely, my meal was delivered by a robot.

After lunch, I wandered the canal area, captivated by the early 20th-century warehouses—wood-framed and clad in masonry—that reminded me of the more industrial corners of Venice. I capped it off with a matcha soft-serve before heading back to the terminal.

At the ferry, I queued with the motorcycles but was the last to board—and unlike them, I had to walk my bike up the ramp. I was pleasantly surprised by my cabin: two beds, plenty of space, and even a private terrace.

As we pulled away from Otaru, the crew waved goodbye from the dock. In the distance, cliffs and mountains faded into haze. I was really going to miss Hokkaido.

Next stop: Niigata.