日本夏2025年

June 05, 2025

日本夏2025年 - Day 20

June 18, 2025
Rumoi to Enbetsu - 102 Km
Start 8:32 AM
Finish 6:26 PM
Total Duration 9:54
Moving Time 5:12
Stopped Time 4:42
Ascent 638 m
Descent 641 m
Tour Total 2,275 Km
Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/297337363

I slept well last night at the free roadside campground in Rumoi. My earplugs saved me from the snoring coming from the tent next door. I woke early with the morning light and went to use the bathroom. Some campers were already packing up. I crawled back into my tent, pulled the sleeping bag over my head to block the light, and dozed for a couple more hours.

I finally got up when the tent began to warm. The last two days had been long, hard rides, so I took my time breaking down camp. The motorcyclist beside me was also in no rush, and I rolled out ahead of him. The sound of the waves was a welcome companion as I started north along the blue coastline.

Today I changed my route, choosing to hug the shore for the rest of the day. The skies were nearly cloudless, and a strong wind from the south pushed me along. I rode into Rumoi (population 18,132), stopped at a Seico Mart for a Craft Boss latte and a cream-filled pastry, then pedaled down to the harbor and out the other side of town.

On the highway, I spotted my first road sign for Wakkanai — 182 km to go. I promised myself I’d only cover about half of that today. I passed a group of massive oil storage tanks, followed by a row of wind turbines I had spotted from my campsite the night before. The harbor had a lighthouse offshore and two more on land. The salty air was invigorating.

I was now on Highway 232, a quiet two-lane route that traced the Sea of Japan. The hills rose sharply from the shore, making for a beautiful, rugged coastline. I kept my gilet unzipped as I pedaled north. The next town was Obira (population 2,660). I noticed colorful stacks of fishing floats in lots along the highway. The narrow belt of land between the mountains and the sea gives this area its distinctive beauty.

I stopped at a wonderful roadside rest area next to the old Haneda Family Herring Lodge, which was unfortunately closed. The restaurant wasn’t open yet, but I used the seating area to charge my phone and battery pack, and to finish editing and uploading yesterday’s report. When lunch service started, I treated myself to a delicious seafood rice bowl, miso soup, and an Asahi beer.

Next came the tiny town of Onikhika. Sadly, I noticed a lot of plastic debris littering the coastline — a mix of fishing floats, baskets, buckets, and rope netting. I’ve spotted this throughout Hokkaido, and it’s a blemish on an otherwise beautiful landscape.

Then came Tomamae (population 2,936). I admired the harbor murals and passed a series of old, ramshackle houses. The area featured a long line of wind turbines, making the most of the strong southerly winds. Even the lamp posts had a distinctive tulip design. I passed a temple, a cemetery, and a spa, but didn’t stop — I didn’t want to have to reapply sunscreen and hoped for a bath later down the road.

The coastline soon changed, with sheer cliffs dropping straight into the sea. The highway dipped inland, making for a series of challenging ups and downs. The next town was Haboro (population 6,548), where I spotted the Ororon bird monument. The sun was still shining, but darker clouds were starting to move in.

Today I noticed something rare in Japan — motorcyclists waved as they passed. In a country where a bow is the customary greeting (even between cyclists), it felt like a small moment of camaraderie. I passed a 20-foot-tall snow fence between the highway and the shore, imagining how harsh the winters must be here. As I rode, the skies grew gray and the air cooled sharply. A large truck hauling live fish rumbled by.

The next town was Shosanbetsu (population 1,005). I passed cows grazing in a field and rode up to the observatory. I located one of the town’s free campgrounds, which was dotted with a handful of motorcycle campers, and checked out the facilities. It was windy, and I decided to investigate another site closer to the water. This one was near an orange torii gate and a shrine, but it didn’t seem very inviting.

I opted instead for the nearby onsen. As is common in Japan, admission was paid via a vending machine that dispensed a ticket. At the counter, the clerk instructed me to pick a wooden stick from a container. To my surprise, I drew one marked with two green lines and was handed a brown paper–wrapped prize. Later I discovered it was a bottle of household cleaner — a thoughtful gift, but one I couldn’t justify carrying on a bicycle, so I returned it before I left. I soaked in four different pools, including an outdoor bath, shaved, and pondered my route. By 4:30 PM, I decided to press on to the next town, which promised a restaurant, convenience store, and paid camping site. I pulled on my gilet and jacket as the fog thickened.

The next town, Enbetsu, was 18 km away. The mist made for challenging visibility — the sea on my left, cattle grazing in a field to my right. When I arrived in Enbetsu (population 2,249), I stopped at Aji no Donbei for a bowl of tempura and a frosty beer, then rode to the Seico Mart for supplies. I set up camp at Enbetsugawa Kasen Park. The wind was strong and the air cold. Thank goodness I had purchased that jacket in Sapporo.