日本夏2025年

June 15, 2025

日本夏2025年 - Day 11

June 7, 2025

Aomori to Yokohama (Aomori) - 97 Km

Start 8:49 AM

Finish 6:28 PM

Total Duration 9:39

Moving Time 5:40

Stopped Time 3:58

Ascent 612 m

Descent 621 m

Tour Total 1,210 Km

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/292652989

I slept well in Nogi Central Park, Aomori. After yesterday’s epic ride, I was wiped out and turned in late. The spot I picked was perfect—hidden, quiet, peaceful—almost. Not far from me, a kakkō bird (the Japanese cuckoo) called through the trees, mimicking a cuckoo clock. I used earplugs, but they barely helped. By 4:30 AM, sunlight was piercing the tree cover and lighting up my tent. I threw my sleeping bag over my face and tried to sleep in. The nearby Shinkansen line rumbled now and then, but thankfully, no trains passed during the night. As I packed up, a few early risers strolled the park. I’d been lucky; it was a great spot.

The morning was sunny and warm. I rode through the heart of Aomori in just shorts and a t-shirt, back at sea level. Behind me loomed Mt. Hakkōda and the range I’d crossed last night—still fresh in my legs.

I stopped at Lawson for a Craft Boss latte, a chocolate old-fashioned donut, and a buttery kouign amann. In the city center, I crossed a large pedestrian bridge with sweeping ocean views. I rode around for a while, getting a feel for Aomori.

I could have taken the ferry to Hokkaido, but the plan was to ride to Honshu’s northernmost tip. So I headed northeast, out along the Shimokita Peninsula. Back along the sea again, the road traced the coastline in gentle ups and downs. Traffic was light.

I was low on everything—8% battery on my phone, 25% left on my power bank, no water. I pulled over to charge my phone. A running club passed me on the sidewalk, and I had to work a bit to get ahead of them again. The sea was a deep turquoise, and inland, steep green hills climbed upward. I passed through the Uto Tunnel.

In Asamushi, I trusted my gut and stopped at Tsurukameya Shokudō—packed with locals. It turned out to be one of the best meals of the trip: incredible tuna sashimi, fresh and rich. While eating, I charged my phone and power bank. Afterward, I went to the nearby YU-SA Asamushi Sky Spa for a full refresh: a long soak, a shave, a clean shirt, and full water bottles. I even found a vending machine selling Calpis cream soda—the first of the tour.

Back on the road, the wind had picked up. The sun was bright, and I reapplied sunscreen as I followed the coast around Mutsu Bay, heading toward Ōma. The road cut inland to cross the Natsudomari Peninsula, and traffic picked up on National Route 4. I stuck to the bumpy sidewalk.

Hot and sweaty, I stopped at a Family Mart for two cold grapefruit juices. After that, I veered off Route 4 and onto Route 279, where traffic lightened again.

A wind farm loomed ahead—one I’d seen hours ago on the horizon leaving Aomori. On a long straightaway, a dozen motorcyclists roared past me heading south. Alongside the shoulder, I passed a long tangle of three-quarter-inch videotape strung along the road. I couldn’t help but wonder what had been recorded on it.

By evening I arrived in Yokohama (Aomori Prefecture, population 4,258) and stopped at 御食事処はまなす for dinner: sashimi, grilled fish, and several beers. The restaurant buzzed—one table of drunken men, another table of tipsy women. One guy nearly fell over on his way out.

Afterward, I rode to Lawson for some supplies, then made my way to Yokohamahachiman Shrine, hoping to stealth camp. As I arrived, a man was closing up. I told him I wanted to take a photo—technically a lie, and I felt guilty about it. But this trip is a blend of cultural exploration and athletic test. I never leave a trace, and I like to think the places I pass through don't mind offering me shelter for a night.

I found a quiet spot near a small stone monument and set up camp. Mosquitos were out in force, and I sprayed myself down before sitting on the monument and editing this report.