Getting to Tokyo

June 27, 2025

Getting to Tokyo

The week leading up to my departure from New York was a whirlwind. My semester had just ended, final grades needed to be calculated and submitted, and on top of that, I was hosting my friend Ayano—whom I know from my cycling group and once rode with through her hometown of Osaka. In the midst of it all, my birthday landed on Wednesday. My son Caleb organized a rainy cycling scavenger hunt to celebrate, adding both charm and a mud stripe to the day. I managed to pack just in time—though in my rush, I accidentally boxed up my lithium-ion batteries. I realized my mistake right before the Uber arrived.

Check-in at JFK went smoothly, and though the flight was long, I managed to sleep a little. Upon arriving at Haneda, my bike and gear arrived without issue, and my car service was waiting. I reassembled my bike in the tight confines of my hotel room and got my eSIM up and running.

Fueled by a quick Craft Boss latte from Lawson’s, I set out to explore Tokyo. The temperature was in the mid 60’s and it was cloudy. I rode across town to Taitō City and visited Sensō-ji, Tokyo’s oldest and most revered temple. For lunch, I stopped at Waunn, where I had Sea urchin, Middle fatty tuna, and Salmon row with miso soup and beer. Locals were impressed to learn that I was cycling to Hokkaido, and they suggested nearby places to sightsee.

After lunch, I pedaled to SCAI The Bathhouse, one of the leading contemporary art galleries in Tokyo, where I saw a show by Kohei Nawa. The surrounding neighborhood was serene, dotted with quiet Buddhist temples. I continued on to Nezu-jinja, a beautiful shrine complex featuring an Inari shrine with a path of low torii gates—low enough that I accidentally knocked my head. I had planned to ride on to Nakano, but with my phone battery down to 20%, I decided to head back to the hotel instead.

My New York cycling crew wouldn’t recognize the version of me obeying every traffic light in Tokyo. That said, just a block from my hotel, my patience wore thin. With no cars in sight, I rolled through a red light while making a right turn—only to be nearly sideswiped by a scooter that appeared out of nowhere. A not-so-gentle reminder to follow the rules.

After regrouping at the hotel, I decided to return to Taitō City for dinner—this time by train. It turned out to be far more complicated than riding my bike, and I got turned around more than once. I eventually made it to Bibibi, a tiny two-table restaurant recommended by one of my students. It felt like a family-run spot, though I couldn’t quite figure out the dynamics. The younger server, surprisingly, was from New York.

Dinner was sashimi with miso, featuring fish sourced from Hokkaido, where the chef was originally from. As I was leaving, the rain had started to fall. Without hesitation, they handed me an umbrella—a small gesture that felt deeply kind. The trip back to the hotel was smoother, and despite a few missteps, it had been a full—and unforgettable—first day.

I slept well my first night in Japan and felt somewhat adjusted to the time change by morning. The day began with a hot rooftop soak at my hotel—an incredibly peaceful start. After grabbing a Craft Boss Latte and a few treats from Lawson’s, I set out to explore more of Tokyo.

My first stop was Shibuya, where I rode through the famously bustling crossing, alive with movement and energy. From there, I made my way to Shimokitazawa, a trendy neighborhood known for its vintage shops and laid-back vibe. Tokyo’s gentle hills surprised me, and I noticed vibrant hydrangeas blooming along the streets, adding bursts of color and fragrance to the cityscape.

After a full loop around Shimokitazawa, I continued on to Gotokuji Temple in Kichijoji—the legendary birthplace of the Maneki-Neko, or "lucky cat" figurines. The temple grounds were serene, a calm counterpoint to the urban pace.

Next, I headed into Shinjuku, where I indulged in a rich, savory bowl of ramen. At Inkhorn Brewing, I tried the Yellow Warbler IPA, a refreshing break before moving on. I passed beneath the looming Godzilla head and made my way into the narrow alleys of Golden Gai. There, I stopped at Yadokari Bar, where the bartender told me about a nearby festival happening at Hanazono Shrine.

Curious, I followed the tip and found myself swept into the festive energy—enjoying crispy fried chicken, another beer, and the lively atmosphere of celebration. As evening approached, I pedaled back to Gotanda, my senses filled with Tokyo’s vibrant sights, sounds, and tastes.

For dinner, I stopped at Burger & Bistro Occi, a cozy spot that hit the mark before I turned in for the night. Tomorrow, the real adventure begins.

Shinagawa to Taitō City Loop - 35Km

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/286609910

Exploring Tokyo - 54Km

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/287167332